Retinoids #1 BEST Anti-aging Skincare Ingredient for Mature Skin

We have all heard about the importance of adding anti-oxidants to both our diet as well as topically to our skin, so let’s discuss the top dog ingredient when it comes to anti-aging. These are anti-oxidants and derivatives of vitamin A, which are the retinoids.  Retinoids come in both prescription and OTC (over-the-counter) options. The prescription options are tretinoin aka retin-A, tazarotene, and adapalene, which are all regulated by the FDA.

Tretinoin is the gold standard and has the most research behind it.  Research shows that tretinoin hits the specific retinoid receptors that produce more collagen in the skin.  In our late 20’s to early 30’s, our body starts slowing down this collagen production as well as the top layer of our skin, which are dead skin cells, don’t turn over as quickly as when we were younger. Studies show that tretinoin speeds up this process as well, while it thickens the deeper layer of the skin, which adds plumpness and firmness to our skin. Tretinoin is FDA approved in safely and effectively treating photoaging/sun damage as well as acne.  Signs of photoaging are age spots, wrinkles, texture, laxity, and sallowness.  What also has been shown is that tretinoin can actually protect the collagen you do have from UV exposure. 

All of this information is very exciting, but with this ingredient, you will have to be very patient, because it involves more of a commitment from you compared to some of the other anti-aging ingredients. You have to commit to using it long term, ease into it as tolerated, and use a sunscreen.  You really have to think of this more as a long game strategy.  Tretinoin comes in all different strengths, so it is best to start out at a very low dose and acclimate your skin.  There is no sense in increasing the percentage of your tretinoin if your skin can’t handle it, because you can really set yourself back by causing extreme irritation.  Also, It generally takes 6-12 months to start seeing results anyway, so there is no rush!

Some of the side effects of using too strong of a strength could be irritation, burning, inflammation, flaking, peeling, dryness, and pain.  What tretinoin is doing is thinning the upper most layer of the skin (stratum corneum), which are these dead skin cells that I have mentioned.  This layer can contribute to skin looking dull and wrinkled, but these layers do offer sun protection, so your skin will become more photosensitive.  It is critical that you commit to using sun protection if you decide to add this to your skincare routine. 

OTC options are Retinol, Retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate. These are not regulated by the FDA.  These options are less irritating, because they are 10-20x/weaker than prescription.  Where tretinoin is in its active form, these forms need to be converted in a 1 or 2 step process within the skin.  Using a retinol could be a good place to start to get your skin acclimated before moving onto prescription, or using it on areas that are too sensitive, like your neck, for tretinoin. You also may decide you do not want to go the prescription route, so retinol is an excellent choice. It offers the same great benefits at a lower cost and no prescription needed, but it will take longer to see results.

Here are some tips when starting a retinoid, especially a prescription:

• You don’t want to also start adding other actives to your skincare regime at the same time.  These could include AHA’s, BHA’s, and vitamin C.  Even chemical-based sunscreens can cause irritation, so a mineral would be best.  

• When your skin is acclimated, you don’t want to use some other actives at the same time.  You want to use a retinoid at night and use BHA’s, AHA’s, or vitamin C in the morning, whereas, niacinamide can be used with a retinoid and is actually beneficial to do so.

• As I mentioned before, you have to use sunscreen every day, because your skin is more susceptible to sun damage.  Don’t bother adding a retinoid if you are not going to use sunscreen.  You will only damage your skin even more, and you are throwing your money away.

• Initially, avoid the eye, nostril, corners of mouth and neck areas, because the skin in these areas are more sensitive.

• Start off once a week for about a month and increase as tolerated.  Have in your mind that you plan on taking a year to get acclimated to the initial strength you are starting on.  Again, there is no rush! 

• If you notice that you are starting to run into some irritation, you can try:

  • Waiting about 10 minutes or so, until your skin is fully dry after washing your face, because damp skin absorbs topical products more than dry skin.

  • Mix it with your moisturizer to break up the concentration.

  • Back down to using it less times per week. 

 Here are some of the retinoids that I have used and what I am currently using:

• The ordinary offers some retinoid options, and the one I tried was the Granactive retinoid 2% in squalene.  I did not notice any irritation.  It also comes in a 5%, so this would be a good place to start to see how you tolerate it. 

• I then went with a low-dose .02% prescription of tretinoin through my dermatologist, and gave myself about a year and a half to acclimate. 

• Spring of 2021, I started Curology at the same prescription strength I was on previously to see how my skin reacted to the new product, because I consistently used this product every night. I had no irritation, so I decided to up the strength to the next strength of the tretinoin the next month.  I did notice some slight tingling for about the first month, but no irritation whatsoever.  It is now fall, so I plan to stick with this strength through the winter, since my skin does become more dry and sensitive.  My strategy is to consider upping the strength of tretinoin annually in the Spring and Summer as tolerated, and then be very conservative during the fall and winter months.  Remember, protecting your skin’s moisture barrier is the most important thing. 

  Check out my free downloadable Anti-Aging Skincare Schedule on my homepage of all the ingredients I recommend with a morning and night routine, because there are some items that you don’t want to take together, so I took the guess work out of it for you.